In recent years, the number of restaurants of all descriptions in
Copenhagen has increased dramatically, with a burgeoning array of
designer places aimed at the city's young and wealthy alongside a raft
of old-fashioned establishments offering expensive but excellent Danish
fare. Traditionally, Danish cooking has been based on meat or fish plus
two veg, though today it can encompass anything from delicious cuts of
lean meat accompanied by wild mushrooms and berries to stodgy plates of
grisly sausage. An affordable, if somewhat hit and miss, way to sample
traditional Danish food is to look for the chalk boards outside the
city's kros (bars) offering dagens ret ("dailymeal"), set lunches or
dinners where the emphasis is on affordable and nourishing home cooking.
Another Danish speciality is the smørrebrød , or open sandwich, normally
a tiny piece of ryebread heaped with toppings such as cold meats, beef
tartar or herring, to name but a few. If your Danish is a bit rusty, be
aware that nearly all cafés and restaurants in Copenhagen have English-language
menus, though you may have to ask for one.
For snacks or cakes, there's an amazing selection of cafés , often
doubling as bars, many of which spill out onto the city pavements during
summer. With large, cheap sandwiches available in most, they offer great
value for money. Another Danish speciality is its excellent, and
ubiquitous, konditorier (bakeries), which sell affordable pastries,
cakes and bread. If you're really on a shoestring there are dozens of
takeaway pizzerias , most of a reasonable standard, along with the
ubiquitous grill stands , which offer a variety of sausages and burgers.
Though not exactly cordon bleu, they can provide welcome pitstops on a
long walk around the city. The immigrant community's impact is also
being increasingly felt, with a large array of kebab and curry houses -
probably Copenhagen's cheapest eating-out options - along with a good
selection of (slightly pricier) Thai restaurants. Vegetarians are
reasonably well catered for in Copenhagen - most restaurants will have
at least a couple of meat-free dishes. We've given phone numbers for
restaurants in all cases where it's advisable to book in advance.
If you're self catering, there are many good health food shops in the
city. Three of the best places are Naturpoteket Torvegade 36,
Christianshavn, Solhatten , Istedgade 85, in Vesterbro and Solsikken ,
Blågårdsgade 33, Nørrebro.
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We've divided our listings into the following areas: Indre By, Tivoli
and around, Christianshavn, Vesterbro, Frederiksberg, Nørrebro and
Østerbro.
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Price categories
The categories used to code our restaurants are based on the cost of a
single main course without drinks .
Cheap Under 30kr
Inexpensive 30-60kr
Moderate 60-100kr
Expensive 100-150kr
Very expensive Over 150kr
Danish menu reader
Basics
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Bread
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Brød
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Ice Cream
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Is
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Coffee (with cream)
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Kaffe (med fløde)
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Tea
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Te
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Milk
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Mælk
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Frankfurters/ sausages
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Pølser
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Cheese board
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Ostebord
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A selection of spiced and pickled herring
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Sildebord
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Sugar
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Sukker
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Noodles
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Nudler
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Rice
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Ris
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"Danish" pastry
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Wienerbrød
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Egg ( æg ) dishes
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Boiled egg
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Kogt æg
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Fried eggs
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Spejlæg
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Omelette
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Omelet
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Scrambled eggs
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Røræg
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Fish ( Fisk )
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Cod
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Torsk
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Herring
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Sild
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Prawns
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Store rejer
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Salmon
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Laks
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Trout
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Forel
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Meat ( Kød )
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Beef
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Bøf
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Chicken
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Kylling
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Ham
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Skinke
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Lamb
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Lam
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Pork
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Svinekød
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Venison
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Vildt
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Vegetables ( Grøntsager )
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Beans
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Bønner
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Brussel sprouts
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Rosenkål
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Carrots
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Agurk
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Cucumber
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Salatgurk
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Lettuce, salad
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Salat
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Mushrooms
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Champignoner
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Onions
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Løg
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Peppers
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Peberfrugt
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Potatoes
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Kartofler
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Sweetcorn
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Majs
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Fruit ( Frugt )
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Apples
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Æbler
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Bananas
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Bananer
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Blueberries
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Blåbær
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Cherries
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Kirsebær
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Grapes
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Vindruer
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Melon
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Melon
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Orange
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Appelsiner
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Pineapple
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Ananas
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Raspberries
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Himbær
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Strawberries
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Jordbær
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Vegetarian Copenhagen
Most Copenhagen restaurants have at least a couple of vegetarian options
on the menu. The following places are some of the best:
Altas Bar
Base Camp
Den Grønne Kælder
Hackenbusch
Morgenstedet
Picnic
Spiseloppen
Danish pastry and bakeries
Bread- and pastry-making is a thriving business in Denmark, and you'll
find a bakery around almost every corner in Copenhagen. Danes generally
eat freshly made bread from the local bakers rather than sliced and
packaged supermarket loaves. Try the rundstykke (literally "round piece"),
a crispy bread roll baked with different combinations of seeds and grain,
and eaten fresh at breakfast with butter and jam or cheese. Follow this
with a piece of freshly made pastry and a cup of coffee and you have the
traditional Danish breakfast. And don't expect the Danish pastries made
in Denmark to resemble those you'll find abroad, however: they're less
sweet and sticky, and much more flaky and crispy (in Denmark, Danish
pastry is actually called Wienerbrød , "Viennese bread", because the art
of making flaking pastry was learnt from bakers in Vienna).
Two of the city's best bakeries are Kræmmerhuset , Christianshavns Torv,
which produces amazing bread baked in traditional stone ovens, plus
great pastries and cakes, and Reinh. Van Hauen , Frederiksberggade 23,
which has over 27 years of organic baking to its credit and serves up
mouthwatering rundstykker and pastries. For sit-down cakes and pastries,
try Café Europa , Konditoriet , La Glace , Norden and Salonen .
Smørrebrod
The most characteristic, and perhaps the most appetizing, feature of
Danish cuisine is the open sandwich, or smørrebrød , basically a thin
slice of rye bread covered in fresh butter and heaped with an array of
delicious foodstuffs. The traditional meal starts with a fish smørrebrød
, followed by a meat smørrebrod and then a cheese smørrebrod (each
washed down with a small glass of ice-cold schnapps). To the uninitiated,
it can be a bit of a mystery which toppings go well together, though
café and restaurant staff will always be pleased to introduce you to the
mysteries of this Danish artform.
Smørrebrød come in one of three forms: either you order your toppings
from a list of ingredients, or you construct your own sandwiches from a
buffet, or you have your smørrebrod served up ready made. The first two
can be difficult for the smørrebrød novice, as neither order forms nor
buffet tables give much indication of which things can be mixed and
which can't - as a general rule, don't combine different types of meat
on the same slice of bread until you really know what you're doing.
Good restaurants for ready-made smørrebrød are Ida Davidsen and Café &
Ølhalle "1892" , while at Huset Med Det Grønne Træ and Hansens Gamle
Familiehave you'll be ordering from a list of toppings. Fantastic and
amazingly varied smørrebrod buffets can be found at Traktørstedet på
Rosenborg and Kanalen .
Indre By
Atlas Bar Larsbjørnstræde 18 tel 33 15 03 52. Bus #14 or #16. Mon-Fri
11am-10pm, Sat noon-10pm. Moderate. On trendy Larsbjørnstræde in the
basement underneath Flyvefisken restaurant, the Atlas Bar was originally
a vegetarian restaurant which now also features non-vegetarian dishes (around
100kr) of an international - and usually spicy - nature, like Mexican
chilli or Bali chicken. Portions are large and the menu is chalked up on
a bar column - one side meat, the other fish and vegetarian. Always
packed at lunchtime, when it's a good idea to book in advance.
Bankeråt Ahlefeldtsgade 29. Bus #40. Mon-Fri 9.30am-midnight, Sat & Sun
10.30am-midnight. Inexpensive. On the corner of Nansensgade, cosy
Bankeråt is renowned for its affordable, quality dishes - mostly Asian,
Italian and Mexican - and its free movie screenings on Sunday evenings
in winter.
Café & Ølhalle "1892" Rømersgade 22 tel 33 93 25 75. Nørreport Station.
Daily 11.30am-4pm, Nov-June closed Mon. Moderate. In the basement of the
Workers' Museum, the 1892 is the only restaurant in Copenhagen in a
listed building, complete with 1930s decor and unique glass ceiling.
Specializing in food from the period, such as traditional Danish
bidesild (strongly flavoured pickled herring) washed down with schnapps.
Lunchtime is always very busy - book in advance.
Dan Turéll Store Regnegade 3. Bus #31, #42 or #43. Mon-Wed 10am-midnight,
Thurs 10am-2am, Fri & Sat 10am-4am, Sun 11am-midnight. Moderate. French-style
café off Gothersgade devoted to the memory of popular Danish author Dan
Turéll. French and English breakfasts, sandwiches and wok meals are all
good, while the Dan Turéll burger (beef or chicken; 90kr) is big and
tasty, and comes with heaps of salad.
Davids Sølvgade 91 tel 33 13 80 56. Bus #10. Tues-Fri 6pm-8.30pm.
Inexpensive. Selling a single, set takeaway meal (changes daily), Davids
is probably the best place in town to get a carry out (there's no in-house
seating). The food is a delightful blend of Mediterranean and Danish
influences, such as scallops in a creamy sauce with pesto and cous-cous,
and its proximity to various parks means there's no shortage of places
to eat. The price (60kr) includes a loaf of freshly baked bread. Call
ahead, as meals are made individually and take thirty minutes to
prepare.
Eastern Corner Sølvgade 85A. tel 33 11 58 35. Bus #10. Mon-Thurs & Sun
5pm-11pm, Fri & Sat 5pm-midnight. Moderate. Affordable and reasonable
Thai restaurant. The red and green curries are tasty and well-spiced,
and there's a small bar-café attached if you fancy an after-dinner
coffee and cake.
L'Education Nationale Larsbjørnsstræde 12 tel 33 91 53 60. Bus #14 or
#16. Mon-Sat 11.30am-midnight, Sun 4pm-midnight. Moderate. Paris in
Copenhagen: everything in this café comes from France - even the butter
on the table - and the tipple of choice is French wine by the glass
rather than the usual Danish beer. The food is well-made French country
cooking in large portions; 110kr for the meal of the day.
Etcetera Hovedvagtsgade 8 tel 33 33 99 97. Bus #1, #6 or #9. Tues & Wed
4pm-midnight, Thurs 4pm-1am, Fri 4pm-3am, Sat 6pm-3am. Expensive. In a
small street just off the west side of Kongens Nytorv, ultra-hip
Etcetera is full of model types and men in polo-neck jumpers sampling
reasonable Tunisian/North African-inspired food. The seating on deep
sofas is comfortable, though getting to your food on the table can prove
a bit of a pain.
Europa Amagertorv 1. Bus #1, #6 or #29. Mon-Wed 9am-midnight, Thurs-Sat
9am-1am, Sun 10am-midnight. Moderate. Overlooking Amagertorv and the
Storkespringvand Fountain, the traditional, glass-fronted Café Europa is
a welcome halfway point down Strøget for a cup of coffee, a superior
slice of cake or a snack or light meal. Outdoor service is very
efficient, so if you're in a hurry, this is the place to go.
Flyvefisken Larsbjørnsstræde 18 tel 33 14 95 15. Bus #14 or #16. Mon-Sat
5.30pm-midnight. Moderate. In the same building as the Atlas Bar , on
the corner of Studiestrædet and with a good view of goings-on in trendy
Larsbjørnstræde, Flyvefisken offers up to 100 excellent Thai dishes (around
100kr each) - try the excellent deli or deluxe menus (148kr and 210kr
respectively).
Den Grønne Kælder Pilestræde 48 tel 33 93 01 40. Bus #31, #42 or #43.
Mon-Sat 11am-10pm. Moderate. Cosy vegetarian place with a large
selection of scrumptious dishes from a lunchtime buffet and an a la
carte menu in the evening - try the beetroot roesti and garlic-roasted
leeks. Also serves organic wines and homemade bread.
Huset Med Det Grønne Træ Gammeltorv 20 tel 33 12 87 86. Bus #5. April-Aug
Mon-Fri 11am-3pm; Sept-March Mon-Sat 11am-3pm. Expensive. Frequented
mostly by lawyers and solicitors from the nearby law courts, the "House
with the Green Tree" offers some of the finer Danish lunches in the
downtown area. The spread of smørrebrod leaves little to be desired;
neither do the fourteen different types of schnapps.
Ida Davidsen Store Kongensgade 70 tel 33 91 36 55. Bus #1, #6, #9, #10,
#29 or #650S. Mon-Fri 10am-4pm. Moderate. Situated in an atmospheric
cellar, this is one of the best places in town to sample the traditional
Danish smørrebrød , with toppings including smoked salmon, herring and
roast beef with powerful horseradish, all topped with a raw egg yolk, if
you like. Look out for members of the Danish royal family: they live
just around the corner and often pop in for a quick bite.
Klaptræet Kultorvet 13. Nørreport Station. Mon-Wed 10am-1am, Thurs
10am-3am, Fri & Sat 10am-5am, Sun 1pm-midnight. Inexpensive. Frequented
during the week by backgammon-playing locals and exhausted shoppers,
Klaptræet transforms during weekends to a busy hangout for the local
high-school kids. Breakfasts are cheap and there are good-value light
meals - quiche, pizza and suchlike - throughout the day. The enormous
sandwiches - smoked turkey, brie, and roast beef (all 41kr) - are worth
a try.
Klimt Frederiksborggade 29 tel 33 11 76 70. Bus #5 or #16. Mon-Wed 10am-midnight,
Thurs-Sat 10am-2am, Sun 10am-11pm. Moderate. A small and cosy place on
the busy thoroughfare from Indre By to Nørrebro, Klimt serves
scrumptious fusion cuisine, focusing on high-quality fresh produce, at
affordable prices (main courses 50-100kr), plus a large selection of
choice teas, coffees, fruit juices and cognacs.
Konditoriet Amagertorv 6. Bus #1, #6 or #29. Mon-Thurs 11am-5pm, Fri
11am-6pm, Sat 10am-4pm. Inexpensive. Inside the Royal Copenhagen
Porcelain shop, Konditoriet is the place for a genteel cup of coffee or
cocoa, or a Danish pastry or finger sandwich served up on the shop's own
beautiful porcelain and silverware.
Kong Hans Vingårdsstræde 6 tel 33 11 68 68. Bus #1 or #6. Mon-Sat 6pm-midnight.
Very expensive. One of Denmark's best restaurants, this classic French
restaurant, boasting a Michelin star, is housed in a historic fifteenth-century
vaulted basement that was once King Hans's wine cellar. The French menu
with an Asiatic twist couldn't be more enticing, but reckon on around
600kr for a five-course meal.
Konrad Pilestræde 12 tel 33 93 29 29. Bus #31, #42 or #43. Mon-Wed noon-1am,
Thurs noon-2am, Fri & Sat noon-4am. Expensive. Serving fantastic
Scandinavian food in an ultra-chic setting, Konrad pulls in the power-lunchers
and business diners in their droves. Portions are small, prices are high
and the service can be a little over fussy, but if you want to be seen
this is one of the places to be - at least for the moment. Book ahead.
Krasnapolsky Vestergade 10. Bus #5. Mon-Wed 10am-2am, Thurs-Sat
10am-5am, Sun 2pm-midnight. Moderate. Spacious café off Strøget that
caters for a broad range of customers, from suburban housewives on
shopping sprees to hip techno freaks, with its almost round-the-clock
service of chic, French-style café food. Brunch (40-75kr) is served
until 2pm, or try the excellent Krasnapolsky burger.
Krogs Fiskerestaurant Gammel Strand 38 tel 33 15 89 15. Bus #29. Mon-Sat
11.30am-4pm & 5.30pm-midnight. Very expensive. One of the city's oldest,
best and most expensive fish restaurants, located along the canalside
where fisherwomen used to sell their catch. The classic interior, with
high stucco ceilings, white tablecloths, golden mirrors, and eighteenth-century
paintings, is kept as it was when the restaurant first opened in 1910.
The delicious, five-course menu gastronomique costs 465kr; the equally
mouthwatering traditional bouillabaisse with Danish fish and shellfish
costs 200kr. Book in advance.
La Glace Skoubogade 20. Bus #5. Mon-Thurs 8am-5.30pm, Sat 9am-5pm, Sun
11am-5pm. Inexpensive. Time seems to have stood still here, with primly
dressed waitresses ministering to a genteel clientele who come for the
beautifully sculpted, cream-heavy layered cakes and real hot chocolate.
It's just south of Vor Frue Kirke, on a tiny street between Strøget and
Skindergade.
Norden Østergade 61. Bus #1, #6 or #29. Mon-Sat 9am-midnight, Sun 10am-midnight.
Moderate. On the corner of Købmagergade and Strøget, with a fine view of
the hectic shoppers below from the first floor. The café-style food -
soups, sandwiches, quiches and pasta dishes - is good value, considering
the location, and the mouthwatering cakes are freshly made every day.
Nyhavns Færgekro Nyhavn 5 tel 33 15 15 88. Bus #1, #6, #9 or #10. Daily
11.30am-11.30pm. Expensive to very expensive. Located on the sunny side
of Nyhavn, Færgekro - the "ferry inn" - serves unpretentious and tasty
traditional food, either from the fish-laden lunchtime open buffet
(80kr) or the a la carte restaurant upstairs. Choice dishes include the
entrecôte and pomme frites (155kr) and titbits from the vast dessert
table.
Pasta Basta Valkendorfsgade 22 tel 33 11 21 31. Bus #5. Mon-Thurs & Sun
1.30pm-3am, Fri & Sat 11.30am-5am. Inexpensive. Open very late, and
offering an array of fish and meat pasta plus a buffet of nine cold
pasta dishes, this is a favourite final stop for all-night groovers, and
extremely popular with young locals at all times.
Peder Oxe Gråbrødretorv 11 tel 33 11 00 77. Bus #5. Daily
11.30am-12.30am. Expensive. Very popular French-inspired steakhouse on
the small Gråbrødretorv square, busy both at lunch and dinner. The main
attraction is the salad buffet (109kr), including a juicy organic
Oxeburger, made of finest beef. The only drawback is the lack of space -
it can be a tight squeeze, and intimate conversation is impossible.
Sommersko Kronprinsensgade 6. Bus #31, #42 or #43. Mon-Thurs 8am-midnight,
Fri 8am-2am, Sat 9am-2am, Sun 10am-midnight. Moderate. Busy, Parisian-style
café off Købmagergade serving simple and filling food, like delicious
pasta with wild mushrooms, daily until 11pm. Popular meeting spot for
Sunday brunch (62-79kr).
Sporvejen Gråbrødretorv 17. Bus #5. Daily 11am-midnight. Cheap. Housed
in the last of Copenhagen's old trams - the rest are now in Egypt -
parked up on Gråbrødretorv, inside which you can sample some of the
city's best burgers (omelettes for vegetarians) served up with egg and
chips. There are blankets available to keep you warm if you want to sit
outside on a chilly summer's night.
Sticks 'n' Sushi Nansensgade 59 tel 33 11 14 07. Bus #5 or #16. Mon-Sat
6-11pm, Sun 6-10pm. Moderate. This classy sushi bar is among the city's
favourite Japanese eateries. The menu changes according to the fresh
fish of the season (try the yakitori sticks) and there are six different
set menus (170-200kr). There's a second, takeaway, branch (open until
9pm) further down Nansengade.
Thorvaldsen Gourmetbar & Café Gammel Strand 34 tel 33 32 04 00. Bus #29.
Mon-Thurs 10am-midnight, Fri & Sat 10am-2am, Sun 11am-11pm. Moderate.
Popular canalside café, serving a strange combination of Danish and
Spanish food that somehow works well - try some spicy Danish herring
with Spanish salad. There's a great view of the colourful frescoes of
the Thorvaldsen's Museum from the seats outside, which get packed during
summer.
Traktørstet på Rosenborg Øster Voldgade 44 tel 33 15 76 20. Bus #184 or
#150S. Daily 11am-3pm, closed Mon Oct-April. Moderate. Just by the
gatehouse of Rosenborg Slott and open only for lunches and early
afternoon cake and coffee, Traktørstet focuses on traditional Danish
fare - the smørrebrod and herring are exceptional. It's often crowded
with tourists visiting the palace and it can be hard to find a seat -
book a table or, on a warm day, sit outside on the lawn.
Tyvenkokkenhans-koneoghendeselsker Magstræde 16 tel 33 16 12 92. Bus #5.
Tues-Sat 6pm-1am. Very expensive. Named after the Peter Greenaway film
The Cook, the Thief, his Wife and her Lover , this cosy and charming
restaurant (on a small street running east off Rådhusstræde near the Use
It office) offers a fantastic selection of set menus (from 350kr),
ranging from four to twelve courses and featuring traditional
Scandinavian fare with a modern twist. Individual a la carte dishes are
also available, along with a great wine list, and service is excellent.
Tivoli and around
Glyptoteket Dantes Plads. Bus #8, #10 or #34. Tues-Sun 11am-4pm.
Moderate. The Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek's restaurant, set in the gallery's
incomparable Winter Gardens, makes for one of the best lunchtime
settings in town - even in the middle of winter the atmosphere is warm
and uplifting. The food is excellent - try the pickled herring ( sild ),
one of the best in town, served with dollops of sour cream, fresh bread
and chives. Also has great homemade cakes and wonderful coffee.
Christianshavn
Base Camp Halvtolv bygningen 148, Holmen tel 70 23 23 18. Bus #8.
Mon-Wed & Sun 11am-1am, Thurs-Sat 11am-5am, kitchen closes at 11pm.
Moderate. Gigantic combined eaterie, nightclub and live-music venue
located in the Danish Navy's old artillery hall on the Arsenaløen island
part of Holmen. Though there's room for up to 750 diners, the place
never appears empty, and the fusion food with an oriental twist is good.
The enormous and delicious all-you-can-eat Sunday brunches (80kr; served
until 3pm) tempt diners here from all over the city.
Bastionen og Løven Voldgade 50, Christianshavn tel 32 95 09 40. Bus #31
or #37. Mon-Thurs & Sun 10am-midnight, Fri & Sat 10am-1am. Moderate. Set
in the miller's house next to the Løven windmill, this is a superb spot
for a bite of traditional Danish food - try the house speciality, fish
meatballs on rye bread covered in remoulade (a sort of tartare sauce and
mayonnaise with chopped pickles). The large buffet brunch is also
popular. There's peaceful outdoor seating in summer, with a pretty view
of the old city moat.
Era Ora Torvegade 62, Christianshavn tel 32 54 06 93. Bus #2, #8 or #9.
Mon-Sat 6pm-midnight. Very expensive. Top-flight new-Italian cuisine -
more fish, less pasta - good enough to earn a Michelin star and priced
accordingly, with a five-course set menu costing 550kr. Popular with
power-lunchers and expense-account executives. Book well in advance.
Kanalen Wilders Plads 31, Christianshavn tel 32 95 13 30. Bus #2, #8 or
#9. Mon-Sat 11.30am-midnight. Expensive. Intimate, romantic canalside
restaurant in an eighteenth-century building which was formerly the
police photographer's dark room - there's outdoor service under a canopy
too. The lunchtime menu consists of a delicious traditional smørrebrød
buffet; the evening a la carte menu is mostly French.
Månefiskeren Fremtidsskoven, Christiania. Bus #8. Tues-Sun 10am-1am.
Cheap. Impossible to miss (look for the large, colourful sign painted on
a bright-red cast-iron gate), off Pusherstreet heading north towards the
bike shop, Månefiskeren is a reliable and informal café renowned for its
morning servings of eggs and bacon, followed later in the day by
excellent sandwiches and home-made cakes. No alcohol, but joints are
welcome.
Morgenstedet Langgaden, Christiania. Bus #8. Mon & Wed-Sun noon-9pm.
Cheap. Vegetarian and vegan buffet food from a mainly organic kitchen -
there are usually five dishes, such as salad, curry and ratatouille. The
tables are decorated with pots of fresh rosemary and you can help
yourself to pickled ginger and chilli. No alcohol is served, but you can
bring your own.
Spiseloppen Christiania tel 32 57 95 58. Bus #8. Tues-Sun 5-10pm.
Inexpensive. Upstairs from the music venue Musikloppen , this
award-wining restaurant serves superb food that won't break the bank.
The frequently changing but always appealing menu includes a variety of
vegetarian dishes along with specialities such as venison roast with
raspberry compote (150kr). Very popular, so book ahead.
Vesterbro
Bang & Jensen Istedgade 130. Bus #16. Mon-Fri 8am-2am, Sat 10am-2am, Sun
10am-midnight. Moderate. At the quieter end of Istedgade - no sex shops
here - this popular café serves brunch daily until 6pm, featuring a wide
range of unusual foods which you can combine in novel ways - try the
ymer (a mild, creamy yoghurt) with maple syrup. Sandwiches, pasta and
quiches are offered from lunch onwards, before the place transforms into
a cocktail bar in the evening.
Boyesen Værnedamsvej 10 tel 33 31 70 55. Bus #1, #14 or #28. Mon-Fri &
Sun noon-11pm, Sat 11am-11pm. Expensive. One of the city's most renowned
restaurants, the offbeat Boyesen offers an excellent menu of both Danish
and international fish and meat dishes. Afterwards, try some of the
incredible homemade chocolate, flavoured with outlandish ingredients
including curry powder.
Hackenbusch Vesterbrogade 124 tel 33 21 74 74. Bus #6 or #550S. Mon-Wed
10am-2am, Thurs 10am-4am, Fri & Sat 10am-5am, Sun 10am-midnight, kitchen
closes at 10pm. Inexpensive. Long-established place with a bar in front
and an excellent Mediterranean-style restaurant at the back. Try the
spicy and delicious "frog burger" - its ingredients are a well-kept
secret (but don't be put off by the attention-grabbing name, it's
actually made of beef) - on offer on Tuesdays (25kr) in the restaurant.
K-2 Abel Cathrinesgade 21. Bus #6, #16 or #28. Daily noon-11pm.
Inexpensive. Very good-value north Indian restaurant ten minutes' walk
from Central Station serving standard curry-house staples like tandooris
and biryanis. The three-course set meal is a real bargain, and actually
cheaper than an à la carte main course.
Merhaba Abel Cathrinesgade 7 tel 33 22 77 21. Bus #6, #16 or #28. Mon,
Tues & Sun noon-midnight, Fri & Sat noon-1am. Moderate. Scandinavia's
first Turkish restaurant, Merhaba still serves up good Anatolian
cuisine, including a three-course set meal for 79kr - there's belly
dancing at weekends, too, if you can stomach it.
Shezan Viktoriagade 22. Bus #16. Mon-Sat 11.30am-midnight, Sun
11.30am-11.30pm. Inexpensive. Copenhagen's first Pakistani restaurant,
popular with subcontinental expats, and still going strong. The fiery
dishes come in mild, medium and strong - be warned, even medium burns
your tongue off. Choose a table overlooking Istedgade if you want free
entertainment watching the infamous red-light district street.
Thai-Esan Lille Istedgade 7 tel 33 24 98 54. Bus #16 or Central Station.
Tues-Sun noon-11pm. Inexpensive. Exceedingly popular Thai restaurant
serving cheap, hot, no-frills food in a fairly authentic Thai
atmosphere, with plastic dishes and dangling, fake-gold decorations.
Always very busy, so book ahead.
Zugar Baby Vesterbrogade 113. Bus #6 or #28. Daily 9.30am-12.30am.
Inexpensive. Slap-bang in the middle of lively Vesterbro, Zugar Baby 's
speciality is its burgers (40kr), though you can also get English and
French brunches (eggs and bacon, and croissants and jam respectively)
here until 3pm. Convenient for a late snack too - the kitchen's open
until 11.30pm.
Frederiksberg
Café den Blå Hund Godthåbsvej 28 tel 38 87 46 88. Bus #2, #11. Mon-Sat
10.30am-2am, Sun 11am-1am, kitchen closes at 10pm. Inexpensive.
Mediterranean-style café-restaurant featuring enormous sandwich platters
and tapas. Speciality main courses include grilled goat's cheese with
crab tails, or chicken salad with bacon and cold curry sauce (both
52kr). During summer, tables are moved across the road to Axel Møllers
Have and a small stage erected for live jazz. It's just north of
Frederiksberg S-Tog: walk north up Falkoner Allé and turn left into
Godthåbsvej.
Hansens Gamle Familehave Pile Allé 10-12 tel 36 30 92 57. Bus #18 or
#28. April-Sept daily 11am-midnight. Moderate. On the edge of
Frederiksberg Have, this historic, summer-only outdoor restaurant dishes
up some of the city's most stunning, open sandwiches, with a fantastic
spread of herring, cold meats and cheeses, all lavishly decorated with
fresh salad, pickles, fried onions and other smørrebrod essentials.
Café Sokkelund Smallegade 36e. Bus #1 or #14. Mon-Wed 9am-midnight,
Thurs & Fri 9am-1am, Sat 10am-1am, Sun 10am-8pm. Inexpensive. Midway
between the Royal Copenhagen porcelain factory and Frederiksberg Town
Hall, Sokkelund is a convenient watering point after a factory tour or a
visit to the Saturday flea market on the town hall parking lot, with a
selection of coffee, snacks and light meals. The small monthly concerts
- at the better end of the Danish pop-rock scale - are worth seeking
out.
Nørrebro
Floras Kaffebar Blågårdsgade 27. Bus #5 or #16. Mon-Wed & Sun
10am-midnight, Thurs-Sat 10am-1am. Inexpensive. Situated on one Nørrebro
best-kept streets, Floras has outdoor seating on sunny days and daily
specials, plus soups and cakes, all served in an easygoing atmosphere.
Come back at night for cheap beer.
Kashmir Nørrebrogade 35 tel 35 37 54 71. Bus #5 or #16. Daily
5pm-midnight. Inexpensive. One of Nørrebro's best bargains, with decent
Indian food at affordable prices, and conveniently located on the area's
main thoroughfare.
La Mer Blågards Plads 10 tel 35 37 22 24. Bus #5 or 16. Daily noon-10pm,
closed July. Inexpensive. Set on one of the city's most laidback squares
- a delightful spot in the summer - this is one of city's best fish
restaurants, and affordably priced, with fish and chips (42kr), plus
more elegant meals of grilled fish.
Picnic Fælledvej 22b. Bus #3. Mon-Fri 11am-10pm, Sat & Sun noon-10pm.
Cheap. Tiny and friendly sandwich and lunch place near Skt Hans Torv.
Not much seating, but a great pit stop, particularly if you're heading
to Fælled Park for an afternoon's lazing. Huge sandwiches cater to most
appetites and budgets.
Salonen Peblinge Dossering 6. Bus #5 or #16. Daily 10am-11pm.
Inexpensive. This super-hip Nørrebro coffeehouse provides a genial
atmosphere in which to quaff excellent coffee and munch your way through
ice cream, cakes and light meals. Has outdoor tables with lakeside views
and a waterside terrace on a floating dock too, and also rents
paddleboats for cruising the Peblinge Lake.
Østerbro
Amokka Dag Hammarskjolds Allé 38-40. Bus #6 or #14. Mon-Wed 11am-11pm,
Thurs & Fri 11am-midnight, Sat 10am-11pm, Sun 10am-10pm. Inexpensive.
Popular Østerbro coffeehouse serving wonderful pastries, some of the
best coffee in the city, plus an eclectic mix of Danish- and
international-inspired sandwiches and lunches, a special children's menu
and speciality chocolates.
Circus Rosenvængets Allé 7 tel 35 55 77 72. Bus #6 or #14. Mon-Thurs &
Sun 11am-1am, Fri & Sat 11am-2am. Moderate. An eccentric mix of
delicatessen, hairdresser and restaurant, Circus is one of Copenhagen's
most original and popular places to eat. Booking is advised,
particularly at weekends, though in fine weather the seating spills out
onto the pavement. The menu changes weekly, but expect a varied
selection of international cuisine - one permanent fixture are the
superb mussels, delicately marinaded in white wine.
Guldanden Sortedam Dossering 103 tel 35 42 66 06. Bus #6 or #14. Mon-Sat
5.30pm-9pm. Expensive. One of Østerbro's best restaurants, with great
views over the lakes, magical on a moonlit evening. Serving both themed
fixed menus ("Spanish", "wild food", "spring") and a la carte dishes,
prices are high, but it's well worth a splurge. Excellent wine list.
Park Østerbrogade 79 tel 35 42 62 48. Bus #6 or #14. Mon-Wed & Sun
11am-midnight, Thurs-Sat 11am-5am. Moderate. A very popular
French-inspired restaurant with a café atmosphere and a relaxing roof
garden, Park offers everything from simple, though tasty, burgers
through to large beef steaks with all the trimmings. Book ahead,
particularly at weekends, when it becomes a nightclub after midnight.
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